May 15 - bus to Boston
fly to Phili
fly to Glasgow
May 16 - arrive Glasgow
bus to city center
walk to hotel (Nova-tel)
May 17 - pre-tour meeting for the Road Scholar Best of Scotland tour
May 18 - Tour begins(see tour summary for details)
May 20 - Transfer from Glasgow to Oban (Royal Hotel)
May 22 - Transfer from Oban to Ft William(Ben Nevis Hotel)
May 24 - Transfer from Ft William to Dingwall(Tulloch Castle)
May 26 - Transfer from Dingwall to Pitlockery (Fishers Hotel)
May 28 - Transfer from Pitlochery to Edinburgh (Crown Plaza Royal Terrace)
May 30 - tour ends
taxi to Waverly Station
train to Bathgate
motorhome rental begins
night in caravan park at golf course near Biggar
May 31 - Mosshall Farm Caravan Park
June 1 - return motorhome
train to Ft William
taxi to Onich (Lodge on the Loch)
June 2 - taxi to Ft William
taxi to start of boat trip (barge Fingal)
walk 7 miles - start of Great Glen Way
June 3 - walk 7 miles in AM; rest in the afternoon - boat pub?
June 4 - rested on the boat (berth: Fort Augustus, above the locks)
June 5 - 6 mile waterfall walk from Ft Augustus
berth: Fort Augustus, below the locks
June 6 - 2 mile waterfall walk from Foyers (berth: Foyers)
June 7 - walk 4.5 miles
June 8 - walk 6 miles in AM - end of Great Glen Way
taxi to Inverness (Columba Hotel)
June 10 - taxi to Inverness train station
train to Bathgate (Fairway Hotel)
June 14 - train to Glasgow
bus to Glasgow airport (Holiday Inn Express)
June 15 - fly Glasgow to Phili
fly Phili to Boston
Green Shuttle from Logan to home
Saturday, August 4, 2018
Sunday, July 22, 2018
Scotland Trip Index of Places
Cathedrals/churches:
- Day 1 in Glasgow - St Mungo's Cathedral
- Day 2 out of Glasgow - Old Kirk yard and Brig 'o Doon
- Day 3 transfer 1 - St Conan's Kirk - eclectic style
- Day 11 transfer 5 - Rosslyn Chapel - from Da Vinci Code
- Day 10 out of Pitlochery - Dunkeld Cathedral
- Peebles - Cross Kirk - ruins
Museums:
- pre-tour in Glasgow - People's Palace
- Day 1 in Glasgow - Kelvingrove Museum
- Riverside Museum of Transportation
- Day 2 out of Glasgow - Robbie Burns Cottage and Museum
- Day 3 transfer 1 - Hill House (Charles Rennie Macintosh) drive by only
- Day 4 out of Oban - Kilmartin Museum - history of iron age people;
standing stones and cairns nearby
Natural:
- Day 3 transfer 1 - Loch Lommand
- Day 5 transfer 2 - cruise on Lock Shiel;
- Day 6 out of Ft William - gondola up Aonach Mor in the Ben Nevis Range
- Day 7 transfer 3 - Isle of Skye - Coullens (Red and Black) mountains
Battlefields/Historic:
- Day 5 transfer 2 - Glenfinnon Monument where Bonnie Prince Charlie landed
- Day 6 out of Ft Wiliam - Glencoe and visitor center
- Day 6 out of Ft William - Commando Memorial statue
- Day 8 out of Dingwall - Culloden and visitor center
Sites:
- Day 5 transfer 2 - Glenfinnon - passage of Harry Potter train over viaduct
- Day 5 transfer 2 - Ft William - Neptune's staircase - locks at the start of the Great Glen Way
- Day 11 Edinburgh - Royal Mile
- Day 6 out of Ft William - train ride across Rannoch Moor
- Day 6 out of Ft William - Green Welly rest stop
- Day 8 out of Dingwall - Clava Cairns
- Day 9 transfer 4 - Cairngorms National Park - sheepdog demo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doSCIEebhAsv
https://www.leaultworkingsheepdogs.co.uk/
- Day 10 out of Pitlockery - Loch of the Lowes - Osprey preserve
- Day 11 transfer 5 - bridges across the Firth of Forth
Restaurants
- lunch at Kelengrove museum cafe
- lunch at Robbie Burns Museum cafe
- lunch in Ivarary The George - baked goat cheese!
- lunch at cafe with loche view near Oban near garden
- lunch at the cafeteria at Green Welly
- fancy trout lunch at Glennfinnon House
- lunch in Portree - fish and chips on the water
- lunch at Cawdor Castle cafe
- lunch in Carbridge
- lunch at Bessie's place - best lentil soup(Morocan w/ tomato and chick peas)
- lunch in old kitchen at Scone Palace
- all of the meals on the boat:
- salmon / nutloaf
- pasta
- filo bundles/
- veg haggis / chicken
-
- Inverness - Hootananny, Black Iron Brewery
- 4 dinners at hotel in Bathgate
Castles/Palaces:
- Day 2 out of Glasgow - Culzean Castle - on the Firth of Clyde
- Day 3 transfer 1 - Inverary Castle (home of current Duke of Argyle)
- Day 4 out of Oban - Dunstaffnage Castle and chapel(ruins with wooden stairs)
- Day 5 Fort william - Old Inverlochy Castle
- Day 7 transfer 3 - Eilean Donan Castle
- Urquart Castle on Loch Ness
- Day 8 out of Dingwall - Cawdor Castle
- Day 10 out of Pitlochery - Scone Palace - Stone of Scone; current residence of the 8th Earl of Mansfield; had lunch in the old kitchen
- Day 11 Edinburgh - Edinburgh Castle
- Inverness - Inverness Castle
Distilleries:
- Day 4 Oban - Oban distillery - small; in-town; souvenier glass
- Day 9 transfer 4 - Glen Ord distillery - large; big warehouse; Singleton Malt - all goes to SE Asia
Towns:
- Glasgow - Novatel - nice modern hotel with nice bar and restaurant; music in the evening
- Inverary - lunch at The George - old inn
- Oban - Royal Hotel; near ferry to Mull
- Fort William - Ben Nevis Hotel; view of Ben Nevis from my bed!
- Portree - Isle of Skye, harbor w/ fish and chips; girls playing bagpipes in the square
- Dingwall - Tulloch Castle(hotel); lovely dining room and a traditional music concert the second evening there
- Carbridge - small 300 yo bridge(kids jumping off); lunch here
- Pitlockery - Fisher Hotel; after dinner walk to salmon ladder; after dinner discussion of current Scotland politics
- Dunkeld - town on the River Tay; visited cathedral
- Culross - town that time forgot; tour of old buildings; l
- Edinburgh - Crown Plaza Royal Terrace
- Biggar - Upper Clydesdale Museum; camped at golf course
- Peebles - walked through town; parked near cemetery
- Bathgate - Mosshall Farm Caravan Park
- Inverness - Columba Hotel
- Bathgate - Fairway Hotel
- Falkirk - Falkirk Wheel; Kelpies
- North Berwick - beach town
- Day 1 in Glasgow - St Mungo's Cathedral
- Day 2 out of Glasgow - Old Kirk yard and Brig 'o Doon
- Day 3 transfer 1 - St Conan's Kirk - eclectic style
- Day 11 transfer 5 - Rosslyn Chapel - from Da Vinci Code
- Day 10 out of Pitlochery - Dunkeld Cathedral
- Peebles - Cross Kirk - ruins
Museums:
- pre-tour in Glasgow - People's Palace
- Day 1 in Glasgow - Kelvingrove Museum
- Riverside Museum of Transportation
- Day 2 out of Glasgow - Robbie Burns Cottage and Museum
- Day 3 transfer 1 - Hill House (Charles Rennie Macintosh) drive by only
- Day 4 out of Oban - Kilmartin Museum - history of iron age people;
standing stones and cairns nearby
Natural:
- Day 3 transfer 1 - Loch Lommand
- Day 5 transfer 2 - cruise on Lock Shiel;
- Day 6 out of Ft William - gondola up Aonach Mor in the Ben Nevis Range
- Day 7 transfer 3 - Isle of Skye - Coullens (Red and Black) mountains
Battlefields/Historic:
- Day 5 transfer 2 - Glenfinnon Monument where Bonnie Prince Charlie landed
- Day 6 out of Ft Wiliam - Glencoe and visitor center
- Day 6 out of Ft William - Commando Memorial statue
- Day 8 out of Dingwall - Culloden and visitor center
Sites:
- Day 5 transfer 2 - Glenfinnon - passage of Harry Potter train over viaduct
- Day 5 transfer 2 - Ft William - Neptune's staircase - locks at the start of the Great Glen Way
- Day 11 Edinburgh - Royal Mile
- Day 6 out of Ft William - train ride across Rannoch Moor
- Day 6 out of Ft William - Green Welly rest stop
- Day 8 out of Dingwall - Clava Cairns
- Day 9 transfer 4 - Cairngorms National Park - sheepdog demo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doSCIEebhAsv
https://www.leaultworkingsheepdogs.co.uk/
- Day 10 out of Pitlockery - Loch of the Lowes - Osprey preserve
- Day 11 transfer 5 - bridges across the Firth of Forth
Restaurants
- lunch at Kelengrove museum cafe
- lunch at Robbie Burns Museum cafe
- lunch in Ivarary The George - baked goat cheese!
- lunch at cafe with loche view near Oban near garden
- lunch at the cafeteria at Green Welly
- fancy trout lunch at Glennfinnon House
- lunch in Portree - fish and chips on the water
- lunch at Cawdor Castle cafe
- lunch in Carbridge
- lunch at Bessie's place - best lentil soup(Morocan w/ tomato and chick peas)
- lunch in old kitchen at Scone Palace
- all of the meals on the boat:
- salmon / nutloaf
- pasta
- filo bundles/
- veg haggis / chicken
-
- Inverness - Hootananny, Black Iron Brewery
- 4 dinners at hotel in Bathgate
Castles/Palaces:
- Day 2 out of Glasgow - Culzean Castle - on the Firth of Clyde
- Day 3 transfer 1 - Inverary Castle (home of current Duke of Argyle)
- Day 4 out of Oban - Dunstaffnage Castle and chapel(ruins with wooden stairs)
- Day 5 Fort william - Old Inverlochy Castle
- Day 7 transfer 3 - Eilean Donan Castle
- Urquart Castle on Loch Ness
- Day 8 out of Dingwall - Cawdor Castle
- Day 10 out of Pitlochery - Scone Palace - Stone of Scone; current residence of the 8th Earl of Mansfield; had lunch in the old kitchen
- Day 11 Edinburgh - Edinburgh Castle
- Inverness - Inverness Castle
Distilleries:
- Day 4 Oban - Oban distillery - small; in-town; souvenier glass
- Day 9 transfer 4 - Glen Ord distillery - large; big warehouse; Singleton Malt - all goes to SE Asia
Towns:
- Glasgow - Novatel - nice modern hotel with nice bar and restaurant; music in the evening
- Inverary - lunch at The George - old inn
- Oban - Royal Hotel; near ferry to Mull
- Fort William - Ben Nevis Hotel; view of Ben Nevis from my bed!
- Portree - Isle of Skye, harbor w/ fish and chips; girls playing bagpipes in the square
- Dingwall - Tulloch Castle(hotel); lovely dining room and a traditional music concert the second evening there
- Carbridge - small 300 yo bridge(kids jumping off); lunch here
- Pitlockery - Fisher Hotel; after dinner walk to salmon ladder; after dinner discussion of current Scotland politics
- Dunkeld - town on the River Tay; visited cathedral
- Culross - town that time forgot; tour of old buildings; l
- Edinburgh - Crown Plaza Royal Terrace
- Biggar - Upper Clydesdale Museum; camped at golf course
- Peebles - walked through town; parked near cemetery
- Bathgate - Mosshall Farm Caravan Park
- Inverness - Columba Hotel
- Bathgate - Fairway Hotel
- Falkirk - Falkirk Wheel; Kelpies
- North Berwick - beach town
Scotland Trip Day by Day Narrative with Photos
We had a wonderful 4+ week vacation in Scotland.
We had booked a 2-week Road Scholar tour followed by a 3-night motor home rental, a one week boat trip walking the Great Glen Way, and finally a week at the end to do what we liked.
We packed for the cold, rainy weather which is typical of Scotland, but the weather we had was generally sunny and warm and occasionally muggy(they call it 'close'). We had a few days with fog/mist(they call it 'Haar') and a few rain showers but hardly needed our rain gear.
We saw 10 castles in various stages of use and ruin.
We visited 2 distilleries, at least 6 museums, 4 battlefields, natural sites including many lochs(lakes), archaeological sites, saw a sheepdog demonstration, and slept in 10 hotels including the camper and the boat.
The night before we left I got up in the night and stubbed my toe so badly I broke it. This completely distracted me and took away much of the fun sense of anticipation one feels upon embarking on vacation, especially one like this where I had planned so much and had been anticipating for decades. 'Why me' was my new battle cry and 'how am I ever going to be able to.....' any number of the activities I'd planned so carefully. But there was nothing that could really be done about it so I tried not to dwell on it and was determined not to allow it to ruin my plans.
Tues May 15
We took the bus to the airport and flew without incident from Boston to Glasgow via Philadelphia (so we didn't have the short-hop flight after flying all night; also wanted to use AA for ff miles and no baggage fee). The long overnight flight is never fun but with the sense of anticipation returning, it seemed minimally inconvenient.
Wed May 16
Arriving at Glasgow airport, we took a bus to the city center. Noticing there was a stop a very short distance from our hotel, we got out there. What I didn't realize is that from the bus stop to the hotel it was straight up a very steep hill!
We dragged our heavy bags up the hill and to the hotel, Nova-tel, a very new-seeming hotel with a nice lobby with a bar/restaurant. They said we could check in soon and gave us a nice cup of coffee while we waited.
This was the first in a long line of 'good coffee' we found. Many of the most basic sort of places had wonderful cappuccino machines, some breakfast buffets had self serve machines!
Soon we were in our room, and immediately took a shower and a nap. We were a day early for our tour so we could relax and get over the jet lag.
Another great discovery was that the window in the room would open! This turned into a bit of an annoyance at midnight or so when night time revelers were hooting it up in the streets. It happened every night. Sometimes continuing until 4AM! But with no AC and temperatures above normal, we ended up with the window open most of the time and were very comfortable.
Got up and out by 2:00 and went to Howlin' Wolf which was more of a night club for a snack, pizza's. Little thin crust pizzas seem to be a staple bar food in Scotland. We saw them in many places and had them a couple of times.
walked around Glasgow but were pretty wiped out and my toe was hurting. We did find the Royal Scottish Fusiliers museum and saw an exhibit about a guy named Mickle who was an orphan who became a bagpiper for the Fusiliers.
Went back to the hotel and had dinner there, fish and chips(=steak fries) and a club sandwich with 'French fries'(skinnier fries). We made plans for the next day.
At 10:40PM it was just getting to be twilight.
Made a plan for tomorrow, walk by the river.
Thurs May 17
Had breakfast at the hotel and then a nap. The tour began with a light lunch, soup and sandwiches and salad. Met Neil Flather, our Tour Leader and a few of the other people on the tour.
Then we walked 2.5 miles along the River Clyde to the People's Palace and visited this amazing museum about the life of the people of Glasgow. The other half is a huge greenhouse. Beautiful plants, like the National Arboretum in DC.
It was a very warm and sunny day and there were tons of people relaxing by the river and everywhere there was a grassy space. We had an ice cream at the museum which revived us as we walked back to the hotel.
Had an introductory meeting with the tour group. We all introduced ourselves. We met our Tour Guide Charles Davidson in his kilt.
Then dinner with the group, we sat with Shelley and Marvin from New Jersey.
Had a beer at the bar afterwards and a flight of whiskeys.
Up until 11, can't seem to get used to going to be when it is still light.
Fri May 18 - Day 1 of the tour
Another breakfast buffet in the hotel followed by a fabulous lecture on the history of Scotland by Charles.
Then onto the bus and on a tour of the city of Glasgow. Visited St Mungo's Cathedral.
And learned about the Glasgow Coat of Arms
It is about St. Mungo's Miracles:
Saw many other prominent buildings in Glasgow. Ended up at the Kelvingrove Museum where we had our first lentil soup and sandwich lunch at the cafe. Then we started to tour the museum but it was overload on things we weren't all that interested in so we walked down to the Riverside Museum of Transportation. Locomotives, autos, bicycles, motorcycles, horse and carriage; and a metal tall ship out back, built in Glasgow. When we were done with that museum, we were tired and hoped for a taxi, and one appeared! Hung out in the lobby and listen to guitar player. Finally had a burger and some pizza there. Again, late to bed.
Sat May 19 - Day 2 of the tour
On the bus after breakfast and off to Ayershire and Culzean Castle(preserved interior and harpist playing), lovely gardens and then to Robbie Burns cottage and Museum.
Had lunch in the museum cafe, we ordered from a cafeteria menu. Walked around the gardens which were lovely.
Charles read us Tam o' Shanter, a Burns poem which takes place there, in the old kirk yard and on the Brig o' doon.
Dinner back at the hotel.
Sun May 20 - Day 3 of the tour
Our first 'transfer' day. Bags in the hall by 7:15.
For some reason I didn't feel like eating. I pecked at a few pastries. Ended up having a 'bar' on the bus when I finally got peckish.
Drove by a Charles Rennie Macintosh house 'Hill House'. We were supposed to visit but it was closed for renovations. It looked good from the outside, and it ws nice to drive by it.
We drove my Loch Lommand while listening to the song. It was at this point that I finally realized 'I'm in Scotland!' and it was an emotional moment.
Stopped and visited Inverary Castle where the current Duke of Argyle lives with his young family. Very nice house with artifacts, costumes, weapons, etc. We got a nice tour from a woman named Mary.
Then we went into the town of Inverary a very cute town on the water. I was a little drizzly there. We saw a couple on a tour on a motorcycle/tricycle thing. They rode in back driver in front. It looked fun but was a wet day. They were all dressed in rain gear.
Ate lunch at The George, a very old pub. I had the baked goat cheese salad appetizer. It was amazing but very filling! I didn't need the smoked seafood platter which was also very delicious.
On to St Conan's Kirk, an eclectic and ornate historical church. We got a thorough tour. There was a statue of Robert the Bruce with face and hands from Alabaster.
Got to the Royal Hotel in Oban and did laundry which was exhausting and hot. Lift was tiny and so had to wait until the luggage came. We were on the 5th floor!
Dinner was 3 courses and a choice in 3 categories. I had a terrible time selecting what I wanted to eat. And had almost no appetite.
Sped off afterwards to meet someone who'd spent time in Woods Hole. Turned out we didn't have a connection.
Monday May 21- Day 4 of the tour.
Today we should have gone to Mull and had lunch on Iona; but it was not to be.
There was a problem with the radar on the ferry and so it was canceled. Later ferries were booked so we had to find alternative plans. We ended up having a splendid day.
First stop Dunstaffnage Castle and chapel. In the misty rain we explored this mostly ruined castle with wooden stairs around some of the walls and the entrance tower in-tact with 3 levels of rooms.
The Chapel was also in ruins. The misty weather only lent to the mystique of the place.
From there we went to the Oban distillery for a tour. Kyle gave us a wonderful tour and told us all about how whiskey is made. We got a taste of the whiskey and got to keep the glass! Then another taste of a different type. All were splendid.
From there we went to a cafe with a loch view. Where was it? There was a garden nearby which we didn't have time to visit.
After lunch we went to the Kilmartin Museum which told about the history of the people who built the cairns and Standing stones which we also visited near by.
(http://stonesofwonder.com/nether.htm)
Dinner with Charles and Neil at the chip shop down the street.
Then stopped for a drink on the way home. The rain had stopped, clouds lifted and a pink sunset threw the town into a lovely light.
Tues May 22 - Day 5 of the tour
Transfer day! Headed North from Oban to Ft William.
Went on a cruise on Lock Sheil followed by a lovely lunch in a nearby Inn of Loch Trout over tatties and neeps. Delicious dessert, a Raspberry Cranachan served in a chocolate cup! The cruise was nice but rather cold. Lovely views all around.
Then we drove to the Glenfinnan, where Bonnie Prince Charlie landed. There was a museum and a monument. Also at this site, another view of the 'Harry Potter' train going by. We saw it earlier from the boat, also.
Also stopped by Neptune's Staircase, locks along the canal where we'll be walking in 10 days.
Checked into the Ben Nevis Hotel, did our laundry, and then had dinner in the hotel. After dinner we took a walk to nearby Old Inverlochy Castle which is in ruins. Upon returning to the hotel we found a band playing in the lobby. Enjoyed the music and had a drink then off to bed. I could see Ben Nevis from my bed!
Wed May 23 - Day 6 of the tour
Breakfast at 8, although most of the group was already eating when we arrived. The morning started clear and cool. We headed off on the bus to the Commando Memorial a moving site with a lovely view of the Ben Nevis Range.
Then we went on a gondola ride up the side of Aonach Mor. Amazing view. The World Cup of Downhill Bike Racing takes place down narrow trails we could see from the gondola. From there we went back to Ft William to board a train to ride across te Rannoch Moor. More amazing views. Got off the train at <C???> where we got on the bus and then stopped at the Green Welly, a huge gift shop and rest area. We had lunch at the cafe there. Then we drove to Glencoe. What a beautiful valley! Another spectacular day with amazing visibility. Went to a visitor's center about Glencoe but I was too hot and couldn't stay inside. I walked around the trails surrounding the parking lot.
While eating dinner at the hotel, a little on the early side, we heard bagpipes and a piper marched into the room leading a group of tourists for their meal. Marvin was ahead of them all and acted like it was he who was leading them in. A funny moment for the group.
Thurs May 24 - Day 7 of the tour
Up and out of the hotel early to drive to Skye and transfer to Dingwall. Stopped at Eilean Donan Castle for a photo op. Over the bridge to Skye and around by the red and back Coullens, mountain ranges of granite. To Port-tree for lunch on our own. I had fish and chips down by the water and Will had some savory pastries from the bakery in the square where some young girls were playing bagpipes. I had an Iron Bru ice cream cone which was tasty but I didn't know at the time it was a soda flavor! Drove northeast after leaving Skye and making another stop near Eilean Donan Castle. Drove along side Loch Ness and stopped at Urquart Castle which is in ruins but quite extensive. It has amazing views of the loch and was quite popular.
We continued past Inverness to Dingwall where we checked into Tulloch Castle. We had the place to ourselves. It was laundry time again upon check-in and then we enjoyed a drink the the bar followed by a lovely dinner in a dining room where Prince William had stopped once. After dinner we got a ghost tour of the castle which was fun. There are several lovely rooms including a big fireplace in the lobby and a family museum of the Davidsons in a gazebo out back.
Fri May 25 - Day 8 of the tour
A lovely breakfast and out on the bus but not too early. Went by bus to Cawdor Castle with a lovely garden. This is called the Macbeth castle but the timing is wrong. We had lunch here. Then to Clava Cairns which is the area of standing stones and cairns where the time travel scene in Outlander was filmed.
Then to Culloden battlefield with an amazing tour by Charles and an intense visitor's center which had exhibits on all aspects of the battle including the motivation on both sides and a 'live action' experience with screens all around. Chilling and so very sad.
Back at the castle we had a magnificent meal followed by a performance by local musicians playing traditional music on a wide variety of instruments some very old and unique. A Swedish nykel harp and an Indian 'drone'.
Afterwards enjoyed a drink in the bar with Charles and the bartender.
Sat May 26 - Day 9 of the tour
Weather turned colder as we left the castle to transfer to Pitlochery. Visited the Glen Ord distillery which was much larger than Oban. It was interesting to see how they were similar and different. We bought a bottle of Singleton Malt as it is not available elsewhere. Had lunch in Carbridge which was a cute little town then on to the sheepdog demonstration. Fascinating! Cute puppies to pet and lambs to feed also.
Checked into the Fisher Hotel and did our laundry.
Dinner in the hotel and then a walk to the fish ladder where we saw salmon jumping.
Sun May 27 - Day 10 of the tour
On the bus to Dunkeld Cathedral on the River Tay, much of it is under construction. The town of Dunkeld was very cute. On to Scone Palace, a large residence with extensive grounds. Had a lovely lunch in the Old Kitchen including delicious scones. From there to Loch of the Lowes, an Osprey Preserve. Many ways to see baby birds and wildlife.
Back to Pitlockery. Found some Thank-you notes and had a drink at the Old Mill before dinner, they dropped a glass on us so we got another one. Another dinner at the hotel, then a political discussion with Charles. Met another couple afterward and had a nice talk with them.
Mon May 28 - Day 11 of the tour
Another whirlwind day. Out of the hotel and on to Culross, a town that time forgot. We had a tour of some of the buildings. Some were very well preserved. Very cute and historic. Had a wonderful lunch at Bessie's Kitchen. Moroccan lentil soup with chickpeas. Our best lentil soup lunch yet!
Then we headed south to the bridges across the Firth of Forth. The mist(Harr) was just rising and it was a nice effect. Will by now had a bad cold and was sleeping on the bus much of the time. Continued south past Edinburgh and to Roslyn Chapel which is famous from The Da Vinci Code but is amazing in its own right. So many carvings. Would take a long time to see them all. Got a guided tour while seated. Using a mirror was easier then looking up. From there to Edinburgh and the Crown Plaza on the Royal Terrace, our final hotel on the tour. The room was lovely and large but no wifi and no bar. We got drinks out on the patio before dinner(after doing our laundry of course). Dinner was at a long table, I had the chicken. It was a little tough in a way nice to be 'all together'. There was an after dinner walk but it was up hill and Will felt terrible, I didn't feel that great myself, so we didn't go. We did go next door to a hotel with a bar, and wifi.
Tues May 29 - Day 12 of the tour
In Edinburgh. After breakfast in the hotel, we got on the bus for the last time for a tour of the city of Edinburgh. We drove all over, New Town, Old Town... all in a thick 'Harr'(fog/mist). Arthur's Seat, the mountain we'd seen very clearly as we entered the city yesterday, was not visible. We disembarked from the bus briefly to peek through the gates of Holyrood Palace which we wouldn't visit on the tour. Nearby is the Parliament building, with very interesting architecture. Finally we were dropped off at the castle, shrouded in mist. Charles gave us a great tour. It is much more extensive than I thought. Many different buildings and lots of exhibits.We visited some of them but were both feeling kind of lousy. I did find James Dodds Howitt in the books of soldiers killed in WW1.
Then we began an in depth tour of the Royal Mile. Many people peeled off to go to other museums but Louise, Mary Jo and I stuck it out until the end. So many interesting tales. Nooks and crannies(closes and wynds), cemeteries, churches.... all in the mist.
Got back to the hotel and crashed until the sun came out around 4PM and went out to the patio for a drink and then our final dinner. We sat with the Gillespie's, a fun couple from South Carolina. Had a final meeting with Charles and Neil to provide some feedback.
Wed May 30 - Day 13, last day, of the tour
Up for our last breakfast of the tour and goodbye to all our companions. The elevator was broken so we hauled our bags to the lobby ourselves. Got a taxi to the train station and head off to Bathgate where we met Mal, the guy with the motor home. We texted back and forth a bit and one thing he mentioned was were 'double' sheets ok..... and I wrote back that I thought twins would work better for us. Because I thought I had rented a motor home that would sleep 5. Turned out it was a Sprinter. One smaller-than-double bed. One barely-qualifying 'extra' bed, suitable for a 10 year old. Not enough sheets for both. We were uncomfortable to say the least. Worse was that the thing seemed HUGE on the tiny roads! Between the round-abouts, the 5-speed transmission on the 'wrong' side and Will's navigation on the much shorter than expected distances..... and throw in that we were both feeling about as bad as we had so far, and it was a recipe for disaster. Starting off I was trying to go in 3rd gear, 1st was WAY over, and stalled 3 times before learning where 1st was. Also it was a diesel.... another slight difference.
We made it to a grocery store, and then on the way to Biggar, stopped on the road near the turnoff to Romanobridge, where Andrew Wilson grew up. The hillsides were lined with ribbons of stone walls and dotted with sheep. It was a lovely and peaceful place. We continued on to Biggar where we visited the museum there which was very nice but didn't contain a jointer's shop as I expected. We saw the pub Howie's friend Alistair likes but didn't dare go in with an unknown distance to drive. At the museum they told us about a caravan park near the golf course just outside of town and we made it there and got a spot for the night. They only took cash as did the bar/restaurant which was more of a snack bar. Looking back, the town center was only a mile away but we didn't have any energy left to walk there. We were wiped out. We were low on cash as well so we counted our pennies and split a burger and some soup. We did some laundry... in an actual washer! There were a few sprinkles of rain through the evening but not a washout. Finally, we went to bed.
Thurs May 31
Awoke feeling just awful. Slept poorly, throat was worse than ever. Just wanted to go back to sleep and wake up in my own bed. Felt like a total failure for choosing this way of traveling.
We ate some breakfast and took showers. Well, I got a shower, Will couldn't get anything but cold water.
Will proposed we head back and stay near where we would drop off the van and spend the night there and return the van in the morning, and head to Fort William (where we would begin our next tour) a day early.
This sounded like a good plan to me.
We drove to Peebles where we parked near the cemetery. There was a funeral going on with lots of people milling around. We walked past them and into the town center. Another charming Border town, much like Biggar. Lots of shops and churches. Went to the library and spoke to someone there who took my information about Stephen Howitt, the baker, and promised to find out what she could. That felt good.
We bought a bottle of scotch for sipping while in Scotland and headed back to the van.
We drove to The Mosshall Farm Caravan Park and on the way passed through the same valley we had the day before, twice because we missed a turn and had to go back.This was the place where my ancestors lived and worked. Beautiful mountains covered with grass and stone walls. when were they built? Could my ancestors have worked on them? Even though we didn't get to many of the sites I'd found we were close, and from driving around could get the feel that it looks very similar throughout the region.
Mosshall farm is a working cow farm. Cow pastures surrounded the camping area. We were only a few feet from the cows which were a lovely caramel color.
The bathroom here was lovely and we both felt better afterwards in clean clothes.
The airport must be nearby as planes went over through the evening. Also several wind turbines were not far away. In fact, there were lots of them all over Scotland.
Fri June 1
Woke up to a dense fog, another Harr?
It wouldn't clear and I was very nervous about driving. We had to go right out of the campground onto a busy road and only go 1/4 mile to the gas station.
Turns out, we snuck around back, on dirt roads and going through at least one gate, and came out right beside the gas station!
We got back to the 'yard' where Mal met us and drove us to the train station.
We got to Glasgow and got off briefly for a coffee, then onto the train to Fort William which was a bit crowded. But we got comfortable seats and there was a luggage rack. It was a long ride and went back through Rannock Moor which we'd seen before. It was nice to see it again.
In Fort William we got a taxi to the Lodge on the Loch hotel. It was 15 miles south in Onich but was a lovely place. An amazing view of Loch Linnhe and the mountains on the other side. We had a small room on the second floor landing. It was wonderful to have a real bed! We went down and had drinks before dinner.
The restaurant was very nice. The wait staff were all European like many places we'd been. The food was lovely.
After dinner we had a lovely conversation with a nice couple. It started outside and eventually we went in to avoid the bugs.
It was at this point I noticed the painting over the fireplace. It looked like an abstract blob. I'd noticed several other paintings in our room and in the hallways. Some of them looked like Bishops or Popes in a sunny misty environment. Around the ceiling of the room with the fireplace was a trompe l'oeil cornice depicting people in various poses in a procession. It looked like carved stone.
While sitting there I began to see different things in the painting over the fireplace. A figure emerged. Surrounded by light colored blobs. Eventually I saw it was a shepherd and his flock. Much later I saw the sheepdog in there too!
A shepherd in them mist. These were the other paintings also! Not religious figures, shepherds! So, the shepherd we saw during the tour told me he knew of Borthwick shepherds. This branch of my family lived in Borders, where we'd been with the motor home. Now these paintings brought shepherds into the foreground again.
Stayed up until after dark! Later than 11! But tomorrow we don't have to be anywhere until 2:00!
Sat June 2 - Day 1 of boat trip
Had a nice breakfast and checked out at 11. Had a nice talk with the owner who was from Spain. He was a lovely man. I asked if there were prints of the paintings and he said no but I should take the one I liked over the fireplace!
What? I was certain I'd misheard him. I took some photos of the picture and the cornice. He insisted, no take it! So In the frame, with glass and all, I took it in the taxi! My goodness, how was I going to travel for 2 more weeks with this? I decided if I could get it to the boat I could figure it out later.
We got dropped off at a pub in Fort William which wasn't open yet but had a deck outside where we sat and waited. Eventually we got a light lunch. It was nice to sit outside.
I bought some cold remedies and got some cash and we got a taxi to the boat. It took us a bit of looking but found it above Neptune's Staircase, the locks we'd seen while on the tour.
We met the crew and the other passengers who were almost all from England. There was one other American and half the crew was Scottish.
Everyone was very nice. All of the others were much more experienced walkers than we were, although mostly older than us.
After getting settled in our cabins, we got ready for our first 7 mile walk. We took a taxi back to the 'beginning' and walked to Gairlochy where we met the boat for dinner.
When we first started out it was raining so we all put our jackets on. It was wetter inside my jacket than outside. Eventually I took it off. I felt VERY sweaty.
I was still feeling pretty sick even though I took ibuprofin to beat it back a little.
It was fun to walk along and the scenery was lovely, even though it was a bit rainy off and on.
Will stayed on board and watched for our arrival from the bow:
Got back and coffee and tea were out and we could get beer and wine. Dinner was delicious. I'm afraid I didn't keep track of each and every meal that week but they were all very good. I think it was salmon or nut loaf that night. Potatoes and vegetables were served family style. They'd ask us what we wanted for a main course way ahead of time.
After the main course there was 'pudding'(dessert), and then cheese. This was a LOVELY custom. 3 different cheeses with crackers each night.
Finally we get out the big map, discussed where we've been and where we're going next:
Shortly after dinner, everyone disappeared. They shut off the generator at 10.
Slept well although it was very warm in the room.
Sun June 3 - Day 2 of boat trip
Up in time for coffee at 7 and breakfast at 7:30. All meals are taken together around a large table. Felt pretty good, considering.
We decide what we want for lunch the night before, and what we want for dinner after breakfast. Also this morning we had to decide if we wanted to walk the whole day or not. That's a lot of deciding when you feel sick.
We opted for only walking half the day so we had to pull out our life jackets so we could catch the launch back at lunchtime.
Everyone walked together and we enjoyed walking the 7 miles which included the bridge from a fight scene in Rob Roy, and generally lovely scenery everywhere. But we were also happy to stop. I was noticing blisters on my feet.
We carried our lunches but ended up eating on the boat. We layed low on board the rest of the day as we cruised along. It was nice to watch the lovely scenery go by. I felt like Cleopatra on her barge.
We tied up at Laggin across from a boat turned into a pub!
We went across to have a pint. Hand pulled and pretty warm. It was still nice to sit outside and enjoy the view which is so beautiful and constant that one almost forgets to mention it. A thunderstorm threatened but really just added to the scenery. Everyone else got back while we sat there. Tea again, and drinks, and dinner, and sleep soon after. It rained heavily overnight(?)
Mon June 4 - Day 3 of boat trip
We didn't walk today, just rested all day. Again, it felt good.
Napped, read my book, I even sketched a bit. This is the most relaxed we've been since the first few days in Glasgow.
The boat stopped for the night at Fort Augustus, a little touristy town at the foot of Loch Ness. We went out for a few supplies, toothpaste, hard candy etc, and went out to a pub or two.
Tues June 5 - Day 4 of boat trip
Today the boat went through the locks while some folks walked 15 miles.
We took a local hike to a waterfall. We really enjoyed it. Nice to be on our own. Great scenery, a map to follow. A really nice waterfall where we ate our lunch.
We walked about 5 or 6 miles. It was long but good and we went at our own pace. Back in the town, we relaxed in a pub, and then walked back to the boat which was now at the bottom of the locks. I discovered I'd left my camera in the pub, somehow. Will walked back and got it for me.
It was very windy and the rest of the folks had to be brought back to the boat by van. We stayed at the foot of the lochs for the night.
At dinner tonight, 'pudding' was the best sticky toffee pudding we've had yet!
This dessert is common but so far I'd found it to be so-so. This was great!
Wed June 6 - Day 5 of boat trip
The main group was taken back by van to where they stopped walking yesterday. The rest of us took a local walk from where the boat would spend the night, Foyers. We didn't get to the very top of the waterfall, it was a steep hike. But there was no water in the waterfall anyway because they use it for hydroelectric power. We enjoyed the walk, though, again on our own.
We explored the shoreline of Loch Ness near Foyers a little. There was a campground and a few short trails. We walked about 3 miles.
Later we went to pick up the rest of the group.
We sailed by Urquart Castle, which we'd visited from the land-side on the tour.
It looked great from the water.
The cruise back to Foyers was tranquil and beautiful.
Thurs June 7 - Day 6 of boat trip
Cruised back past Urquart Castle to drop off the hikers so they could continue.
We got dropped off on the other side of the Loch at a beach:
and hiked about 4.5 miles to meet the launch. We walked past Aldourie Castle Estate, a pink castle that appeared out of the woods. Then we got a bit off the track but knew we'd eventually find the launch as we were next to the loch/canal the entire time.
Fri June 8 - Day 7, last day, of boat trip
Up early, packed and ready to walk early. Walked all the way past Inverness and to the lock where the canal meets the sea. It was cool and windy.
Walked 6 miles including doubling back to the boat.
We had a last lunch and said goodbye to our hiking friends and the crew of Fingal. We took a taxi to the center of Inverness where we'd booked a room at the Columba Hotel. It was very central, on the river, near the bridge, with a view of Inverness Castle from the lobby.
We had to wait until 3:00 to check in so waited in the restaurant. It was nice to relax with a beer and check the Internet.
Our room was small and looked to the back, but we had a great view of a seagull nest.
Went out looking for a meal. Found the Black Isle Brewery where we enjoyed a beer on the roof garden, and Hootenany where we had some great burgers.
We noticed they were having music in the afternoon the next day so we went back to the hotel early to sleep.
We had a fan in the room which was very helpful.
Sat June 9
Breakfast in the hotel, back to that familiar routine.
Walked 4 miles along the River Ness. We didn't feel well but took it easy and enjoyed the sites along the way.
Back to the Black Isle for a beer before going back to Hootenanny for music. Met some guys on their was to a gin tasting. Interesting discussion about economy etc. Then we went to listen to Traditional Music at Hootenanny. Had a burger there. The music was great.
Then we went back to the brewery and eventually had pizza there.
Sun June 10
Left Inverness today by train to Edinburgh, then Bathgate, and the Fairway Hotel which is a short walk fro the train station.
It is a very small hotel with only 5 rooms. Mainly it is a restaurant and function hall. The 'lobby' is at the bar in the restaurant. Once we got settled we were comfortable enough in the 'family room'. It had a large and small bed. The toilet was not attached to the floor and caused leaks but the bathroom was otherwise.
Again, we had a fan. Our room looked south, toward the Mosshall campground where we'd stayed in the camper. We could see the wind turbines which had been much closer when we were there.
Enjoyed a drink in the bar and a lovely dinner in the restaurant.
Mon June 11
A very nice and quiet breakfast at the hotel. Took the train to
Edinburgh. Went to the National Archive but decided not to spend time there. Another time we'll plan on it. Walked down Princes Street, around behind the castle and to look for 47 Home Street and 19 Panure Place. Found them both but the Harr was a bit much. We found refuge in the International Bar nearby. Had a Guinness with a bunch of old men. It was before noon. Then walked back to the Royal Mile and enjoyed the sites even through it was still a bit drizzly. Stopped in for a wonderful chicken caesar salad.
Did some shopping and finally got a purple scarf.
Got back to the hotel and had a lighter meal of2 appetizers and a cheese plate which was great!
Tues June 12
After another lovely breakfast, we went into town to find the Launderette. While the laundry was washing, will went to get a coffee and I went to the old cemetery. I managed to find Robert Mickle's grave, but later determined this was not the Robert Mickle I'd been looking for. Still it was fun to walk around the cemetery reading the stones. Peaceful and somehow comforting.
After the laundry was finished we took the train to Falkirk. From the train station we took a city bus to The Kelpies. Amazing sculptures depicting Clydesdale horses emerging from the water like water sprites(kelpies).
<pictures>
We could see them from afar, and as we approached they became more and more amazing. We had an ice cream here and then enjoyed the animated history of Falkirk in the visitor's center.
It was a sunny, warm day and we'd walked a fair way from the bus. To find the return bus we walked another mile or so. A little way along the canal where we saw this family of swans.
<pictre>
The bus took us to the Falkirk Wheel. <picture>
An impressive sight! This 'ferris wheel for boats' was designed to replace a flight of locks. It is more of an attraction than a method of transportation but canal boats use it. We were able to take a ride on it.... what turned out to be the last ride of the day. It was interesting and we got some lovely views.<picture>
Had some difficulty getting the bus back to the train station we arrived at. We ended up in the town center and took a different train line back to Edinburgh, and then Bathgate. Probably rather inefficient as it took us more than 1/2 hour but a taxi would have taken 15 minutes.... however, we didn't find a taxi before the train came.
Back to the hotel later than usual (19:30!) and had fish and chips at the hotel for dinner, and another cheese plate.
Wed June 13
Another fine breakfast at the hotel. We decided to take the train to North Berwick, a seaside village. This was because we'd been encouraged to go to St Andrews but it was a 2 hour trip! 4 hours of travel seemed like too much.
We really enjoyed Berwick. All we did was walk around the town, walk along the beach, sit by the marina, then walk to a pub, Ship's Inn, for lunch.
We took a rather early train back as it was starting to cloud up, but it was nice to get back early.
This is our last day of touring. We feel good that we've done so much even though we didn't feel well.
Our final dinner at the hotel was lovely, a prawn and melon cocktail, smoked haddock and cream sauce.
It became very windy during the night.
Thurs June 14
Our final breakfast at the hotel. At first it seemed kind of lowly, but in the end we were like family. I think they liked that we spent a lot on drinks and meals there.
The big wind cause problems with our travel. We had to go back into Edinburgh, and then out to Glasgow on the other line as a tree was on the line between Bathgate and Glasgow.
It was nice to look up at the castle one last time and see the Pentland Hills from the train.
We got to Glasgow and then took the bus to the airport and the Holiday Inn Express, which was walking distance to the terminal.
Went to the terminal for lunch. Had a caesar salad which wasn't quite as good as the one on the Royal Mile.
Went back to the hotel and had some drinks in the lobby and finally a pizza.
Went to bed early.
Fri June 15
Up for breakfast at the hotel, then to the terminal to fly home.
Uneventful trip.
Green Shuttle brought us back to Falmouth.
Great to be home but still felt terrible.
I ended up on antibiotics for a sinus infection, Will got better on his own.
It is now Aug 6 and I've just gotten finished typing this in.
We had booked a 2-week Road Scholar tour followed by a 3-night motor home rental, a one week boat trip walking the Great Glen Way, and finally a week at the end to do what we liked.
We packed for the cold, rainy weather which is typical of Scotland, but the weather we had was generally sunny and warm and occasionally muggy(they call it 'close'). We had a few days with fog/mist(they call it 'Haar') and a few rain showers but hardly needed our rain gear.
We saw 10 castles in various stages of use and ruin.
We visited 2 distilleries, at least 6 museums, 4 battlefields, natural sites including many lochs(lakes), archaeological sites, saw a sheepdog demonstration, and slept in 10 hotels including the camper and the boat.
The night before we left I got up in the night and stubbed my toe so badly I broke it. This completely distracted me and took away much of the fun sense of anticipation one feels upon embarking on vacation, especially one like this where I had planned so much and had been anticipating for decades. 'Why me' was my new battle cry and 'how am I ever going to be able to.....' any number of the activities I'd planned so carefully. But there was nothing that could really be done about it so I tried not to dwell on it and was determined not to allow it to ruin my plans.
Tues May 15
We took the bus to the airport and flew without incident from Boston to Glasgow via Philadelphia (so we didn't have the short-hop flight after flying all night; also wanted to use AA for ff miles and no baggage fee). The long overnight flight is never fun but with the sense of anticipation returning, it seemed minimally inconvenient.
Wed May 16
Arriving at Glasgow airport, we took a bus to the city center. Noticing there was a stop a very short distance from our hotel, we got out there. What I didn't realize is that from the bus stop to the hotel it was straight up a very steep hill!
We dragged our heavy bags up the hill and to the hotel, Nova-tel, a very new-seeming hotel with a nice lobby with a bar/restaurant. They said we could check in soon and gave us a nice cup of coffee while we waited.
This was the first in a long line of 'good coffee' we found. Many of the most basic sort of places had wonderful cappuccino machines, some breakfast buffets had self serve machines!
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| The bar at the hotel, our Spanish bartender on duty |
Soon we were in our room, and immediately took a shower and a nap. We were a day early for our tour so we could relax and get over the jet lag.
Another great discovery was that the window in the room would open! This turned into a bit of an annoyance at midnight or so when night time revelers were hooting it up in the streets. It happened every night. Sometimes continuing until 4AM! But with no AC and temperatures above normal, we ended up with the window open most of the time and were very comfortable.
Got up and out by 2:00 and went to Howlin' Wolf which was more of a night club for a snack, pizza's. Little thin crust pizzas seem to be a staple bar food in Scotland. We saw them in many places and had them a couple of times.
walked around Glasgow but were pretty wiped out and my toe was hurting. We did find the Royal Scottish Fusiliers museum and saw an exhibit about a guy named Mickle who was an orphan who became a bagpiper for the Fusiliers.
Went back to the hotel and had dinner there, fish and chips(=steak fries) and a club sandwich with 'French fries'(skinnier fries). We made plans for the next day.
At 10:40PM it was just getting to be twilight.
Made a plan for tomorrow, walk by the river.
Thurs May 17
Had breakfast at the hotel and then a nap. The tour began with a light lunch, soup and sandwiches and salad. Met Neil Flather, our Tour Leader and a few of the other people on the tour.
Then we walked 2.5 miles along the River Clyde to the People's Palace and visited this amazing museum about the life of the people of Glasgow. The other half is a huge greenhouse. Beautiful plants, like the National Arboretum in DC.
It was a very warm and sunny day and there were tons of people relaxing by the river and everywhere there was a grassy space. We had an ice cream at the museum which revived us as we walked back to the hotel.
Had an introductory meeting with the tour group. We all introduced ourselves. We met our Tour Guide Charles Davidson in his kilt.
Then dinner with the group, we sat with Shelley and Marvin from New Jersey.
Had a beer at the bar afterwards and a flight of whiskeys.
Up until 11, can't seem to get used to going to be when it is still light.
Fri May 18 - Day 1 of the tour
Another breakfast buffet in the hotel followed by a fabulous lecture on the history of Scotland by Charles.
Then onto the bus and on a tour of the city of Glasgow. Visited St Mungo's Cathedral.
And learned about the Glasgow Coat of Arms
Here is the bird that never flew
Here is the tree that never grew
Here is the bell that never rang
Here is the fish that never swam
Here is the tree that never grew
Here is the bell that never rang
Here is the fish that never swam
Saw many other prominent buildings in Glasgow. Ended up at the Kelvingrove Museum where we had our first lentil soup and sandwich lunch at the cafe. Then we started to tour the museum but it was overload on things we weren't all that interested in so we walked down to the Riverside Museum of Transportation. Locomotives, autos, bicycles, motorcycles, horse and carriage; and a metal tall ship out back, built in Glasgow. When we were done with that museum, we were tired and hoped for a taxi, and one appeared! Hung out in the lobby and listen to guitar player. Finally had a burger and some pizza there. Again, late to bed.
Sat May 19 - Day 2 of the tour
Had lunch in the museum cafe, we ordered from a cafeteria menu. Walked around the gardens which were lovely.
Charles read us Tam o' Shanter, a Burns poem which takes place there, in the old kirk yard and on the Brig o' doon.
Dinner back at the hotel.
Sun May 20 - Day 3 of the tour
Our first 'transfer' day. Bags in the hall by 7:15.
For some reason I didn't feel like eating. I pecked at a few pastries. Ended up having a 'bar' on the bus when I finally got peckish.
Drove by a Charles Rennie Macintosh house 'Hill House'. We were supposed to visit but it was closed for renovations. It looked good from the outside, and it ws nice to drive by it.
We drove my Loch Lommand while listening to the song. It was at this point that I finally realized 'I'm in Scotland!' and it was an emotional moment.
Stopped and visited Inverary Castle where the current Duke of Argyle lives with his young family. Very nice house with artifacts, costumes, weapons, etc. We got a nice tour from a woman named Mary.
Then we went into the town of Inverary a very cute town on the water. I was a little drizzly there. We saw a couple on a tour on a motorcycle/tricycle thing. They rode in back driver in front. It looked fun but was a wet day. They were all dressed in rain gear.
Ate lunch at The George, a very old pub. I had the baked goat cheese salad appetizer. It was amazing but very filling! I didn't need the smoked seafood platter which was also very delicious.
On to St Conan's Kirk, an eclectic and ornate historical church. We got a thorough tour. There was a statue of Robert the Bruce with face and hands from Alabaster.
Got to the Royal Hotel in Oban and did laundry which was exhausting and hot. Lift was tiny and so had to wait until the luggage came. We were on the 5th floor!
Dinner was 3 courses and a choice in 3 categories. I had a terrible time selecting what I wanted to eat. And had almost no appetite.
Sped off afterwards to meet someone who'd spent time in Woods Hole. Turned out we didn't have a connection.
Monday May 21- Day 4 of the tour.
Today we should have gone to Mull and had lunch on Iona; but it was not to be.
There was a problem with the radar on the ferry and so it was canceled. Later ferries were booked so we had to find alternative plans. We ended up having a splendid day.
First stop Dunstaffnage Castle and chapel. In the misty rain we explored this mostly ruined castle with wooden stairs around some of the walls and the entrance tower in-tact with 3 levels of rooms.
The Chapel was also in ruins. The misty weather only lent to the mystique of the place.
From there we went to the Oban distillery for a tour. Kyle gave us a wonderful tour and told us all about how whiskey is made. We got a taste of the whiskey and got to keep the glass! Then another taste of a different type. All were splendid.
From there we went to a cafe with a loch view. Where was it? There was a garden nearby which we didn't have time to visit.
After lunch we went to the Kilmartin Museum which told about the history of the people who built the cairns and Standing stones which we also visited near by.
(http://stonesofwonder.com/nether.htm)
Dinner with Charles and Neil at the chip shop down the street.
Then stopped for a drink on the way home. The rain had stopped, clouds lifted and a pink sunset threw the town into a lovely light.
Tues May 22 - Day 5 of the tour
Transfer day! Headed North from Oban to Ft William.
Went on a cruise on Lock Sheil followed by a lovely lunch in a nearby Inn of Loch Trout over tatties and neeps. Delicious dessert, a Raspberry Cranachan served in a chocolate cup! The cruise was nice but rather cold. Lovely views all around.
Then we drove to the Glenfinnan, where Bonnie Prince Charlie landed. There was a museum and a monument. Also at this site, another view of the 'Harry Potter' train going by. We saw it earlier from the boat, also.
Also stopped by Neptune's Staircase, locks along the canal where we'll be walking in 10 days.
Checked into the Ben Nevis Hotel, did our laundry, and then had dinner in the hotel. After dinner we took a walk to nearby Old Inverlochy Castle which is in ruins. Upon returning to the hotel we found a band playing in the lobby. Enjoyed the music and had a drink then off to bed. I could see Ben Nevis from my bed!
Wed May 23 - Day 6 of the tour
Breakfast at 8, although most of the group was already eating when we arrived. The morning started clear and cool. We headed off on the bus to the Commando Memorial a moving site with a lovely view of the Ben Nevis Range.
Then we went on a gondola ride up the side of Aonach Mor. Amazing view. The World Cup of Downhill Bike Racing takes place down narrow trails we could see from the gondola. From there we went back to Ft William to board a train to ride across te Rannoch Moor. More amazing views. Got off the train at <C???> where we got on the bus and then stopped at the Green Welly, a huge gift shop and rest area. We had lunch at the cafe there. Then we drove to Glencoe. What a beautiful valley! Another spectacular day with amazing visibility. Went to a visitor's center about Glencoe but I was too hot and couldn't stay inside. I walked around the trails surrounding the parking lot.
While eating dinner at the hotel, a little on the early side, we heard bagpipes and a piper marched into the room leading a group of tourists for their meal. Marvin was ahead of them all and acted like it was he who was leading them in. A funny moment for the group.
Thurs May 24 - Day 7 of the tour
Up and out of the hotel early to drive to Skye and transfer to Dingwall. Stopped at Eilean Donan Castle for a photo op. Over the bridge to Skye and around by the red and back Coullens, mountain ranges of granite. To Port-tree for lunch on our own. I had fish and chips down by the water and Will had some savory pastries from the bakery in the square where some young girls were playing bagpipes. I had an Iron Bru ice cream cone which was tasty but I didn't know at the time it was a soda flavor! Drove northeast after leaving Skye and making another stop near Eilean Donan Castle. Drove along side Loch Ness and stopped at Urquart Castle which is in ruins but quite extensive. It has amazing views of the loch and was quite popular.
We continued past Inverness to Dingwall where we checked into Tulloch Castle. We had the place to ourselves. It was laundry time again upon check-in and then we enjoyed a drink the the bar followed by a lovely dinner in a dining room where Prince William had stopped once. After dinner we got a ghost tour of the castle which was fun. There are several lovely rooms including a big fireplace in the lobby and a family museum of the Davidsons in a gazebo out back.
Fri May 25 - Day 8 of the tour
A lovely breakfast and out on the bus but not too early. Went by bus to Cawdor Castle with a lovely garden. This is called the Macbeth castle but the timing is wrong. We had lunch here. Then to Clava Cairns which is the area of standing stones and cairns where the time travel scene in Outlander was filmed.
Then to Culloden battlefield with an amazing tour by Charles and an intense visitor's center which had exhibits on all aspects of the battle including the motivation on both sides and a 'live action' experience with screens all around. Chilling and so very sad.
Back at the castle we had a magnificent meal followed by a performance by local musicians playing traditional music on a wide variety of instruments some very old and unique. A Swedish nykel harp and an Indian 'drone'.
Afterwards enjoyed a drink in the bar with Charles and the bartender.
Sat May 26 - Day 9 of the tour
Weather turned colder as we left the castle to transfer to Pitlochery. Visited the Glen Ord distillery which was much larger than Oban. It was interesting to see how they were similar and different. We bought a bottle of Singleton Malt as it is not available elsewhere. Had lunch in Carbridge which was a cute little town then on to the sheepdog demonstration. Fascinating! Cute puppies to pet and lambs to feed also.
Checked into the Fisher Hotel and did our laundry.
Dinner in the hotel and then a walk to the fish ladder where we saw salmon jumping.
Sun May 27 - Day 10 of the tour
On the bus to Dunkeld Cathedral on the River Tay, much of it is under construction. The town of Dunkeld was very cute. On to Scone Palace, a large residence with extensive grounds. Had a lovely lunch in the Old Kitchen including delicious scones. From there to Loch of the Lowes, an Osprey Preserve. Many ways to see baby birds and wildlife.
Back to Pitlockery. Found some Thank-you notes and had a drink at the Old Mill before dinner, they dropped a glass on us so we got another one. Another dinner at the hotel, then a political discussion with Charles. Met another couple afterward and had a nice talk with them.
Mon May 28 - Day 11 of the tour
Another whirlwind day. Out of the hotel and on to Culross, a town that time forgot. We had a tour of some of the buildings. Some were very well preserved. Very cute and historic. Had a wonderful lunch at Bessie's Kitchen. Moroccan lentil soup with chickpeas. Our best lentil soup lunch yet!
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| Here we are in front of one of the lovely preserved buildings |
Then we headed south to the bridges across the Firth of Forth. The mist(Harr) was just rising and it was a nice effect. Will by now had a bad cold and was sleeping on the bus much of the time. Continued south past Edinburgh and to Roslyn Chapel which is famous from The Da Vinci Code but is amazing in its own right. So many carvings. Would take a long time to see them all. Got a guided tour while seated. Using a mirror was easier then looking up. From there to Edinburgh and the Crown Plaza on the Royal Terrace, our final hotel on the tour. The room was lovely and large but no wifi and no bar. We got drinks out on the patio before dinner(after doing our laundry of course). Dinner was at a long table, I had the chicken. It was a little tough in a way nice to be 'all together'. There was an after dinner walk but it was up hill and Will felt terrible, I didn't feel that great myself, so we didn't go. We did go next door to a hotel with a bar, and wifi.
Tues May 29 - Day 12 of the tour
In Edinburgh. After breakfast in the hotel, we got on the bus for the last time for a tour of the city of Edinburgh. We drove all over, New Town, Old Town... all in a thick 'Harr'(fog/mist). Arthur's Seat, the mountain we'd seen very clearly as we entered the city yesterday, was not visible. We disembarked from the bus briefly to peek through the gates of Holyrood Palace which we wouldn't visit on the tour. Nearby is the Parliament building, with very interesting architecture. Finally we were dropped off at the castle, shrouded in mist. Charles gave us a great tour. It is much more extensive than I thought. Many different buildings and lots of exhibits.We visited some of them but were both feeling kind of lousy. I did find James Dodds Howitt in the books of soldiers killed in WW1.
Then we began an in depth tour of the Royal Mile. Many people peeled off to go to other museums but Louise, Mary Jo and I stuck it out until the end. So many interesting tales. Nooks and crannies(closes and wynds), cemeteries, churches.... all in the mist.
Got back to the hotel and crashed until the sun came out around 4PM and went out to the patio for a drink and then our final dinner. We sat with the Gillespie's, a fun couple from South Carolina. Had a final meeting with Charles and Neil to provide some feedback.
Wed May 30 - Day 13, last day, of the tour
Up for our last breakfast of the tour and goodbye to all our companions. The elevator was broken so we hauled our bags to the lobby ourselves. Got a taxi to the train station and head off to Bathgate where we met Mal, the guy with the motor home. We texted back and forth a bit and one thing he mentioned was were 'double' sheets ok..... and I wrote back that I thought twins would work better for us. Because I thought I had rented a motor home that would sleep 5. Turned out it was a Sprinter. One smaller-than-double bed. One barely-qualifying 'extra' bed, suitable for a 10 year old. Not enough sheets for both. We were uncomfortable to say the least. Worse was that the thing seemed HUGE on the tiny roads! Between the round-abouts, the 5-speed transmission on the 'wrong' side and Will's navigation on the much shorter than expected distances..... and throw in that we were both feeling about as bad as we had so far, and it was a recipe for disaster. Starting off I was trying to go in 3rd gear, 1st was WAY over, and stalled 3 times before learning where 1st was. Also it was a diesel.... another slight difference.
We made it to a grocery store, and then on the way to Biggar, stopped on the road near the turnoff to Romanobridge, where Andrew Wilson grew up. The hillsides were lined with ribbons of stone walls and dotted with sheep. It was a lovely and peaceful place. We continued on to Biggar where we visited the museum there which was very nice but didn't contain a jointer's shop as I expected. We saw the pub Howie's friend Alistair likes but didn't dare go in with an unknown distance to drive. At the museum they told us about a caravan park near the golf course just outside of town and we made it there and got a spot for the night. They only took cash as did the bar/restaurant which was more of a snack bar. Looking back, the town center was only a mile away but we didn't have any energy left to walk there. We were wiped out. We were low on cash as well so we counted our pennies and split a burger and some soup. We did some laundry... in an actual washer! There were a few sprinkles of rain through the evening but not a washout. Finally, we went to bed.
Thurs May 31
Awoke feeling just awful. Slept poorly, throat was worse than ever. Just wanted to go back to sleep and wake up in my own bed. Felt like a total failure for choosing this way of traveling.
We ate some breakfast and took showers. Well, I got a shower, Will couldn't get anything but cold water.
Will proposed we head back and stay near where we would drop off the van and spend the night there and return the van in the morning, and head to Fort William (where we would begin our next tour) a day early.
This sounded like a good plan to me.
We drove to Peebles where we parked near the cemetery. There was a funeral going on with lots of people milling around. We walked past them and into the town center. Another charming Border town, much like Biggar. Lots of shops and churches. Went to the library and spoke to someone there who took my information about Stephen Howitt, the baker, and promised to find out what she could. That felt good.
We bought a bottle of scotch for sipping while in Scotland and headed back to the van.
We drove to The Mosshall Farm Caravan Park and on the way passed through the same valley we had the day before, twice because we missed a turn and had to go back.This was the place where my ancestors lived and worked. Beautiful mountains covered with grass and stone walls. when were they built? Could my ancestors have worked on them? Even though we didn't get to many of the sites I'd found we were close, and from driving around could get the feel that it looks very similar throughout the region.
Mosshall farm is a working cow farm. Cow pastures surrounded the camping area. We were only a few feet from the cows which were a lovely caramel color.
The bathroom here was lovely and we both felt better afterwards in clean clothes.
The airport must be nearby as planes went over through the evening. Also several wind turbines were not far away. In fact, there were lots of them all over Scotland.
Fri June 1
Woke up to a dense fog, another Harr?
It wouldn't clear and I was very nervous about driving. We had to go right out of the campground onto a busy road and only go 1/4 mile to the gas station.
Turns out, we snuck around back, on dirt roads and going through at least one gate, and came out right beside the gas station!
We got back to the 'yard' where Mal met us and drove us to the train station.
We got to Glasgow and got off briefly for a coffee, then onto the train to Fort William which was a bit crowded. But we got comfortable seats and there was a luggage rack. It was a long ride and went back through Rannock Moor which we'd seen before. It was nice to see it again.
In Fort William we got a taxi to the Lodge on the Loch hotel. It was 15 miles south in Onich but was a lovely place. An amazing view of Loch Linnhe and the mountains on the other side. We had a small room on the second floor landing. It was wonderful to have a real bed! We went down and had drinks before dinner.
The restaurant was very nice. The wait staff were all European like many places we'd been. The food was lovely.
After dinner we had a lovely conversation with a nice couple. It started outside and eventually we went in to avoid the bugs.
It was at this point I noticed the painting over the fireplace. It looked like an abstract blob. I'd noticed several other paintings in our room and in the hallways. Some of them looked like Bishops or Popes in a sunny misty environment. Around the ceiling of the room with the fireplace was a trompe l'oeil cornice depicting people in various poses in a procession. It looked like carved stone.
While sitting there I began to see different things in the painting over the fireplace. A figure emerged. Surrounded by light colored blobs. Eventually I saw it was a shepherd and his flock. Much later I saw the sheepdog in there too!
A shepherd in them mist. These were the other paintings also! Not religious figures, shepherds! So, the shepherd we saw during the tour told me he knew of Borthwick shepherds. This branch of my family lived in Borders, where we'd been with the motor home. Now these paintings brought shepherds into the foreground again.
Stayed up until after dark! Later than 11! But tomorrow we don't have to be anywhere until 2:00!
Sat June 2 - Day 1 of boat trip
Had a nice breakfast and checked out at 11. Had a nice talk with the owner who was from Spain. He was a lovely man. I asked if there were prints of the paintings and he said no but I should take the one I liked over the fireplace!
What? I was certain I'd misheard him. I took some photos of the picture and the cornice. He insisted, no take it! So In the frame, with glass and all, I took it in the taxi! My goodness, how was I going to travel for 2 more weeks with this? I decided if I could get it to the boat I could figure it out later.
We got dropped off at a pub in Fort William which wasn't open yet but had a deck outside where we sat and waited. Eventually we got a light lunch. It was nice to sit outside.
I bought some cold remedies and got some cash and we got a taxi to the boat. It took us a bit of looking but found it above Neptune's Staircase, the locks we'd seen while on the tour.
We met the crew and the other passengers who were almost all from England. There was one other American and half the crew was Scottish.
Everyone was very nice. All of the others were much more experienced walkers than we were, although mostly older than us.
After getting settled in our cabins, we got ready for our first 7 mile walk. We took a taxi back to the 'beginning' and walked to Gairlochy where we met the boat for dinner.
When we first started out it was raining so we all put our jackets on. It was wetter inside my jacket than outside. Eventually I took it off. I felt VERY sweaty.
I was still feeling pretty sick even though I took ibuprofin to beat it back a little.
It was fun to walk along and the scenery was lovely, even though it was a bit rainy off and on.
Will stayed on board and watched for our arrival from the bow:
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| Will looking from the bow of Fingal |
Got back and coffee and tea were out and we could get beer and wine. Dinner was delicious. I'm afraid I didn't keep track of each and every meal that week but they were all very good. I think it was salmon or nut loaf that night. Potatoes and vegetables were served family style. They'd ask us what we wanted for a main course way ahead of time.
After the main course there was 'pudding'(dessert), and then cheese. This was a LOVELY custom. 3 different cheeses with crackers each night.
Finally we get out the big map, discussed where we've been and where we're going next:
Shortly after dinner, everyone disappeared. They shut off the generator at 10.
Slept well although it was very warm in the room.
Sun June 3 - Day 2 of boat trip
Up in time for coffee at 7 and breakfast at 7:30. All meals are taken together around a large table. Felt pretty good, considering.
We decide what we want for lunch the night before, and what we want for dinner after breakfast. Also this morning we had to decide if we wanted to walk the whole day or not. That's a lot of deciding when you feel sick.
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| One of our fellow walkers took this shot us us with Magnus, our guide |
Everyone walked together and we enjoyed walking the 7 miles which included the bridge from a fight scene in Rob Roy, and generally lovely scenery everywhere. But we were also happy to stop. I was noticing blisters on my feet.
We carried our lunches but ended up eating on the boat. We layed low on board the rest of the day as we cruised along. It was nice to watch the lovely scenery go by. I felt like Cleopatra on her barge.
We tied up at Laggin across from a boat turned into a pub!
We went across to have a pint. Hand pulled and pretty warm. It was still nice to sit outside and enjoy the view which is so beautiful and constant that one almost forgets to mention it. A thunderstorm threatened but really just added to the scenery. Everyone else got back while we sat there. Tea again, and drinks, and dinner, and sleep soon after. It rained heavily overnight(?)
Mon June 4 - Day 3 of boat trip
We didn't walk today, just rested all day. Again, it felt good.
Napped, read my book, I even sketched a bit. This is the most relaxed we've been since the first few days in Glasgow.
The boat stopped for the night at Fort Augustus, a little touristy town at the foot of Loch Ness. We went out for a few supplies, toothpaste, hard candy etc, and went out to a pub or two.
Tues June 5 - Day 4 of boat trip
Today the boat went through the locks while some folks walked 15 miles.
We took a local hike to a waterfall. We really enjoyed it. Nice to be on our own. Great scenery, a map to follow. A really nice waterfall where we ate our lunch.
We walked about 5 or 6 miles. It was long but good and we went at our own pace. Back in the town, we relaxed in a pub, and then walked back to the boat which was now at the bottom of the locks. I discovered I'd left my camera in the pub, somehow. Will walked back and got it for me.
It was very windy and the rest of the folks had to be brought back to the boat by van. We stayed at the foot of the lochs for the night.
At dinner tonight, 'pudding' was the best sticky toffee pudding we've had yet!
This dessert is common but so far I'd found it to be so-so. This was great!
Wed June 6 - Day 5 of boat trip
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| Crew of the Fingal, left to right, Lucy, Steve, Magnus, Adam |
The main group was taken back by van to where they stopped walking yesterday. The rest of us took a local walk from where the boat would spend the night, Foyers. We didn't get to the very top of the waterfall, it was a steep hike. But there was no water in the waterfall anyway because they use it for hydroelectric power. We enjoyed the walk, though, again on our own.
We explored the shoreline of Loch Ness near Foyers a little. There was a campground and a few short trails. We walked about 3 miles.
Later we went to pick up the rest of the group.
We sailed by Urquart Castle, which we'd visited from the land-side on the tour.
It looked great from the water.
The cruise back to Foyers was tranquil and beautiful.
Thurs June 7 - Day 6 of boat trip
Cruised back past Urquart Castle to drop off the hikers so they could continue.
We got dropped off on the other side of the Loch at a beach:
and hiked about 4.5 miles to meet the launch. We walked past Aldourie Castle Estate, a pink castle that appeared out of the woods. Then we got a bit off the track but knew we'd eventually find the launch as we were next to the loch/canal the entire time.
Spent our last night near lock near Lagnalean. They were building a new visitors center there.
Up early, packed and ready to walk early. Walked all the way past Inverness and to the lock where the canal meets the sea. It was cool and windy.
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| The hikers at the end of the trip |
We had a last lunch and said goodbye to our hiking friends and the crew of Fingal. We took a taxi to the center of Inverness where we'd booked a room at the Columba Hotel. It was very central, on the river, near the bridge, with a view of Inverness Castle from the lobby.
We had to wait until 3:00 to check in so waited in the restaurant. It was nice to relax with a beer and check the Internet.
Our room was small and looked to the back, but we had a great view of a seagull nest.
Went out looking for a meal. Found the Black Isle Brewery where we enjoyed a beer on the roof garden, and Hootenany where we had some great burgers.
We noticed they were having music in the afternoon the next day so we went back to the hotel early to sleep.
We had a fan in the room which was very helpful.
Sat June 9
Breakfast in the hotel, back to that familiar routine.
Walked 4 miles along the River Ness. We didn't feel well but took it easy and enjoyed the sites along the way.
Back to the Black Isle for a beer before going back to Hootenanny for music. Met some guys on their was to a gin tasting. Interesting discussion about economy etc. Then we went to listen to Traditional Music at Hootenanny. Had a burger there. The music was great.
Then we went back to the brewery and eventually had pizza there.
Sun June 10
Left Inverness today by train to Edinburgh, then Bathgate, and the Fairway Hotel which is a short walk fro the train station.
It is a very small hotel with only 5 rooms. Mainly it is a restaurant and function hall. The 'lobby' is at the bar in the restaurant. Once we got settled we were comfortable enough in the 'family room'. It had a large and small bed. The toilet was not attached to the floor and caused leaks but the bathroom was otherwise.
Again, we had a fan. Our room looked south, toward the Mosshall campground where we'd stayed in the camper. We could see the wind turbines which had been much closer when we were there.
Enjoyed a drink in the bar and a lovely dinner in the restaurant.
Mon June 11
A very nice and quiet breakfast at the hotel. Took the train to
Edinburgh. Went to the National Archive but decided not to spend time there. Another time we'll plan on it. Walked down Princes Street, around behind the castle and to look for 47 Home Street and 19 Panure Place. Found them both but the Harr was a bit much. We found refuge in the International Bar nearby. Had a Guinness with a bunch of old men. It was before noon. Then walked back to the Royal Mile and enjoyed the sites even through it was still a bit drizzly. Stopped in for a wonderful chicken caesar salad.
Did some shopping and finally got a purple scarf.
Got back to the hotel and had a lighter meal of2 appetizers and a cheese plate which was great!
Tues June 12
After another lovely breakfast, we went into town to find the Launderette. While the laundry was washing, will went to get a coffee and I went to the old cemetery. I managed to find Robert Mickle's grave, but later determined this was not the Robert Mickle I'd been looking for. Still it was fun to walk around the cemetery reading the stones. Peaceful and somehow comforting.
After the laundry was finished we took the train to Falkirk. From the train station we took a city bus to The Kelpies. Amazing sculptures depicting Clydesdale horses emerging from the water like water sprites(kelpies).
<pictures>
We could see them from afar, and as we approached they became more and more amazing. We had an ice cream here and then enjoyed the animated history of Falkirk in the visitor's center.
It was a sunny, warm day and we'd walked a fair way from the bus. To find the return bus we walked another mile or so. A little way along the canal where we saw this family of swans.
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The bus took us to the Falkirk Wheel. <picture>
An impressive sight! This 'ferris wheel for boats' was designed to replace a flight of locks. It is more of an attraction than a method of transportation but canal boats use it. We were able to take a ride on it.... what turned out to be the last ride of the day. It was interesting and we got some lovely views.<picture>
Had some difficulty getting the bus back to the train station we arrived at. We ended up in the town center and took a different train line back to Edinburgh, and then Bathgate. Probably rather inefficient as it took us more than 1/2 hour but a taxi would have taken 15 minutes.... however, we didn't find a taxi before the train came.
Back to the hotel later than usual (19:30!) and had fish and chips at the hotel for dinner, and another cheese plate.
Wed June 13
Another fine breakfast at the hotel. We decided to take the train to North Berwick, a seaside village. This was because we'd been encouraged to go to St Andrews but it was a 2 hour trip! 4 hours of travel seemed like too much.
We really enjoyed Berwick. All we did was walk around the town, walk along the beach, sit by the marina, then walk to a pub, Ship's Inn, for lunch.
We took a rather early train back as it was starting to cloud up, but it was nice to get back early.
This is our last day of touring. We feel good that we've done so much even though we didn't feel well.
Our final dinner at the hotel was lovely, a prawn and melon cocktail, smoked haddock and cream sauce.
It became very windy during the night.
Thurs June 14
Our final breakfast at the hotel. At first it seemed kind of lowly, but in the end we were like family. I think they liked that we spent a lot on drinks and meals there.
The big wind cause problems with our travel. We had to go back into Edinburgh, and then out to Glasgow on the other line as a tree was on the line between Bathgate and Glasgow.
It was nice to look up at the castle one last time and see the Pentland Hills from the train.
We got to Glasgow and then took the bus to the airport and the Holiday Inn Express, which was walking distance to the terminal.
Went to the terminal for lunch. Had a caesar salad which wasn't quite as good as the one on the Royal Mile.
Went back to the hotel and had some drinks in the lobby and finally a pizza.
Went to bed early.
Fri June 15
Up for breakfast at the hotel, then to the terminal to fly home.
Uneventful trip.
Green Shuttle brought us back to Falmouth.
Great to be home but still felt terrible.
I ended up on antibiotics for a sinus infection, Will got better on his own.
It is now Aug 6 and I've just gotten finished typing this in.
Saturday, January 20, 2018
Texas loop trip
Moonset
Flying West BOS->DFW at dawn on Nov 4, 2017
In odd numbered years we have timeshare points to use. This year we went to Newport, RI in January, and National Harbor in May for 3 days each.
We decided to try an 'experimental' two week vacation, combining 1-2 night hotel stays with longer(3-4 night) timeshare stays to use the remaining points. Sort of a test run for our longer cross country trip which we're planning to start in late 2019. By then we hope to be camping in the van most of the time and staying in hotels occasionally.
We decided to fly to Dallas, TX using Frequent Flier miles, and use the timeshare in San Antonio that we knew we liked(Wyndham La Cascada) and another in Fairfield Bay, AR that we had not been to but had been thinking about trying for a while.
We also used this as a chance to get used to using a smart phone. I finally got one the week before we left. It was very useful getting us from place to place and finding restaurants. Very different from having a map. Better in some ways, not as good in others.
Fri. Nov , 2017
Our flight was early, 6:30AM, so we wanted to stay near the airport, and we'd previously used the Park-Sleep-Fly at the Quincy Adams Inn which is a shorter drive than going all the way past the airport to Revere.
We left Falmouth around 3PM and ate at Bertucci's in Brockton along the way so we got to sleep early.
Sat. Nov 4, 2017
Up early and to the airport without incident. flight was on time and uneventful.
We landed in Dallas at 12:30PM Local time and quickly got our bags and the rental car(a black Ford Escape with Mass. plates!) and headed away from the DFW Citi-plex and into the dry flatness of Texas.
We headed for Lockhart, TX. Famous for Barbecue. We had been to Smitty's before, and headed straight back there. It was all as simple and wonderful as we remembered. More crowded than last time. So hot while waiting in line near the fire, which is burning on the floor next to the door.
Here's the wood pile they had out back:
We had 2 'hot rings':
and a pound of pork ribs; they just put it on brown paper and then crumple it so you can carry it to the table. With a couple of Lone Star beers, a side of cole slaw and another of beans. Everything was as amazing as we remembered. We couldn't even finish it! We took it with us and eventually ate every bite.
When planning our first two nights, before we checked into the timeshare in San Antonio, we decided to book a Holiday Inn Express in New Braunfels, TX. We figured if we used Holiday Inn Express for the whole trip, we'd accumulate points for a free stay. We picked New Braunfels because it was in Texas Hill Country and we'd been there before in 2015 and enjoyed it very much.
After I booked the hotel, we found out it was the first weekend of Wurstfest!
It looked like good food, good music and good beer so was decided to embrace it!
Saturday evening we checked into the hotel, put on summer clothes as it was very hot, and headed to the parking lot to meet the 'Wurstwagon', a bus ride to the festival.
The entire festival is very well organized. The bus drops off at the place where one can buy a ride home, and a ticket to get in, and beer tickets using a credit card. There are many places to get beer tickets inside but they only take cash.
You get a colored wrist band which signifies the hotel you're going back to.
Inside, there were five stages all with bands playing all the time. In most places people were dancing. A few of the stages were inside. Tons of tables full of people with plastic beer pitchers stacked high.
We stayed pretty late and took the Wurstwagon back to the hotel (as mentioned above, they give you a wristband color-coded to your hotel - Smart!)
Sunday Nov 5
We slept late and ate breakfast from the lobby in our room.
Around noontime we decided to go back to the festival to look at the booths and eat something... the night before we were too full from the barbecue to think about eating any food.
Turns out the Wurstwagon runs only on Friday and Saturday.
So we called Uber! Another new and wonderful thing the phone can do. I still haven't used it much as a phone. Hardly anyone has the number yet.
Anyway, Uber turned out to be great!
We enjoyed a much less crowded day although it was still very hot.
The photo above of the stage is from Sunday. Notice the people are sitting in the shade but not in the sun. On Sat night there were no seats available and the pitchers were stacked 10+ high.
We ended up splitting a Reuben which was really good, but our appetites were low so we never got to try the sausage on a stick wrapped in a spiral potato:
We shopped a bit but didn't buy anything. I was surprised at how much they were asking for the dirndl outfits. Some of them $250. which makes me think about a costuming career. There is a market for quality costumes here and there.
The previous evening, this was a solid crowd of people!
You can't see the river, but the path in the background is on the far side of it. There was an occasional breeze in this area so it was very popular Saturday night.
We were pretty wiped out as it continued to be hot so we Uber'ed back to the hotel. This driver told us about a great restaurant in San Antonio, La Gloria. We put it on our list which seemed already too full to manage eating at all of our favorite places there.
We laid low for the night.
Monday Nov 6
Another lazy morning. Or goal today was to keep occupied until it was time to check into the condo in San Antonio, only an hour away. Checked out of the hotel and drove to downtown New Braunfels. Walked around looking at the old buildings and the local DPW setting up Christmas decorations!
Tried the strudel at Naegelin's Bakery and it was delicious. We'd seen them at the festival but weren't hungry enough at the time.
Wandered through an antiques market which is half museum and half nostalgia, and a little bit of 'gee, this is where all of my stuff will end up'.
This piece of art caught my attention:
idea for future project: denim and lace oceanscape!
Will found this 'Sellers' cabinet/hoosier:
We walked around waiting for the Railroad Museum to open. It was small but very nice. A dining car that can be rented for functions and a caboose. And a couple of really nice model train exhibits.
We headed west out of New Braunfels, on a back road, and roamed through Hill Country on our way to La Gloria. We got there around 2:00 and sat outside under the trees, sipping Bohemia and splitting a few small plates:
It was still very warm and the shade was welcome, as was the breeze.
It is right by the river, near the Pearl Brewery. We saw some people pull up on a water taxi. We definitely planned to come back!
The phone helped us find our way across town to the Central Market where we stocked up on smoothie supplies and then it was time to check into the condo.
We had a two bedroom unit with a full kitchen, 2 baths, 3 TV's and a jacuzzi.
We relaxed and laid low again.
Tuesday Nov 7, 2017
It was much cooler and we walked to Mi Tierra for breakfast. It was amazing as always!
Will particularly liked the pork in red sauce he had and my breakfast enchiladas were also delicious.
We walked back through the park by the market and through the square by the cathedral.
Went back to the condo and did laundry etc.
In the early evening we walked south along the Riverwalk to the Blue Star Brewery, another of our favorite places from a previous visit.
The same delicious beer and great food but this time there was an added surprise; Tuesday is Jazz night and there was a 17 piece band playing from 8-10PM.
They were just great!
We enjoyed the walk back along the river. The full moon was barely visible, glowing through the clouds,
Wed. Nov 8, 2017
Today we walked north on the Riverwalk, all the way to the Pearl Brewery. Over 2 miles.
We visited 2 bars that we didn't realize connected through the lobby of The Hotel Emma, until we walked out the back of one place and into the lobby, then into the other bar where we had been much earlier. It is a large complex.
The more interesting of the two bars was
Interesting combination of industrial and old-world oak and leather.
We would have eaten here except we wanted to save our appetite for La Gloria.
And it was worth it.
It was much colder than the first time so we ate inside. Just as delicious. Can't wait to go back!
We Uber'ed home since it was dark out and 2.5 miles back in the cold. Wow, the phone is really handy!
Thurs. Nov. 9
Time to hit the road. Headed out of town East on Rt. 40 toward Houston.
We ended up finding a hike at Lake Livingston State Park.
It was an easy hike mostly through the woods. We also looked at the camping areas.
We stopped for Mexican food along the road. A sleepy little place, the food was good but unremarkable.
We stopped in Lufkin, TX at a Holiday Inn Express.
There was a restaurant in the parking lot, but we weren't hungry.
Fri. Nov 10
Up and out with breakfast from the lobby. After driving for a while we were a little hungry so we stopped for a What-a-burger. It was ok but had mustard and no ketchup... different. I guess we don't know what to ask for. It gave us the energy for a walk so we stopped at Piney Point Park for a walk through the woods. It was actually the path between this park and the park next door. Both are on the Wright Patman Lake. More features than Lake Livingston. And nice camping right by the lake.
Continued driving to Hot Springs, Arkansas and arrived at the Holiday Inn Express around 5PM. Along the way passed a lot of older development along Lake Hamilton but the road was being widened and a new road with Big Box stores, restaurants, and hotels had recently been developed. Our hotel was on this new road. We were tired and didn't want to explore in the dark and ended up going to the Longhorn Steakhouse. It was ok but a little salty. The atmosphere was nice and the bar was not crowded.
Sat. Nov 11
Had breakfast in the room. Will got some stuff from the lobby.
Drove into Hot Springs Park which is a main street with bathhouses on one side, backing up to the hill where the hot springs emerge; and shops and restaurants on the other side. There is a big parking garage one block back from the shops.
One bath house is the Visitor's Center and Museum.
The ceiling in the men's changing room:
Then we walked around the springs. There are paths behind the bathhouses and a path to the very top. Abut a 1/2 mile almost straight up. We decided to save that for next time.
We took a break for some good beer and a meat and cheese plate at the Superior Bathhouse Brewery which is in one of the old bathhouses.
Some of the seating is at a counter facing out the window.
Here's a view of the buildings and hillside across the street:
Under the street is the river bed. There used to be a series of bridges but they covered it over many years ago.
View from the parking garage, one block back from the main street:
Went to the Back Porch Grill at the Sun Bay Resort for dinner. It is right on the lake but it was dark so we couldn't see if the view is nice, but the steak was wonderful, with a nice glass of wine and salad.
It is in an RCI resort, so it might be a future destination.
Sunday Nov 12
Left Hot Springs and stopped at Little Rock on the way to Fairfield Bay.
Walked along the Arkansas River by the Bill Clinton Library and Museum.
which was in front of this market:
which was closed on Sunday. The street behind it had a streetcar going down the center and lovely old-time buildings(a lot like Hot Springs) housing interesting restaurants.
I'd previously scoped out the Flying Saucer Bar with 200 taps! Amazing place!
This is the largest space without any saucers or other picture:
We had a meat and cheese plate, which is fast becoming one of our favorite ways to keep it small and eat more often.
We learned a while ago that we can't eat in restaurants three meals per day. Breakfast is almost always a non-restaurant meal. Either Shredded Wheat and a smoothie if we're in a condo, or occasionally bacon and eggs(but still with a smoothie), or a hotel breakfast which is less than ideal. We try to have our own cereal also and avoid the white-flour-rich components.
By having an appetizer for lunch we can then enjoy a dinner out later. That one day we had a Whataburger but otherwise successfully avoided Fast Food for the entire trip, except in the airport where it is usually the most economical option and sometimes the only option early in the AM.
Other times we eat a big lunch and only nibble on leftovers and snacks at dinnertime.
We walked back to the car along the river.
We saw this plant:
We have this same type of bush in our yard. Here the purple berries are about 1/4"+, ours are less than 1/8".... must be the climate.
Here is a plaque on the actual 'Little Rock':
We saw these kids sliding down the man-made hill on cardboard.
Stopped in Clinton, AR at Walmart for groceries on the way to the condo at
Fairfield Bay, Arkansas. The roads leading to the resort and through it were very narrow and often steep; sometimes with deep gullies on either side. Pretty harrowing at times when you're not used to it but it must indicate how much water gets flowing when it rains.
We arrived around 4PM. Our condo was in the Mountain Meadows section over by one of the golf courses. It was nice and big. 2BR, 2BA, Full kitchen with table and big living room. Fireplace, hot tub and loft with 2 more beds. 3 decks with 6 sliders.
On a pedestal so no common walls with another unit. Here's another unit across the street from ours:
Golf course view, and short walk to the clubhouse.
Again, when warmer, it would be lovely there. It was still nice, and VERY quiet.
A little water view across the driveway, beyond other units which would have an unobstructed water view.
Restaurant schedule is strange. Everything is closed by 8 or 9. On Sunday only one or two places were open. Most places are closed at least 2 days per week.
Went to go out to the Mexican restaurant at 7. Was supposed to be open until 8 but they were closed although still cleaning up inside. Next door was a pizza place that had lights on but looked very quiet.
They had a bar but no drinkable beer and no red wine at all. Their excuse was that is is Sunday, so I guess they were expecting a delivery at some point?
Even their menu was restricted to pizza. And it was not like any pizza from the Northeast. An odd crust and the toppings under the cheese. We got it to go and they didn't even have a large box, they had to put it in three small boxes... really weird.
It didn't taste bad though so we ate enough to be full.
We didn't have any logs for the fireplace but listened to music for a while.
Monday Nov 13
Healthy breakfast in the condo then drove around the resort. It is a huge place with lots of hills and hollers. one place is so steep it has gates so you don't get stuck at the bottom in the ice.... or flood. Drove around by the Marina and the camping area.
Ended up at the museum on the other side of the resort and walked to
Indian Rock.
As we walked along the scarp to we noticed many other caves but none as large as this one.
Next we drove to the market for fire logs and cold cuts. A very well equipped grocery and a 'dollar store' which was more like a Job Lot, not just stuff costing a dollar.
Went to the Mexican place for lunch. It was quite good and they had Bohemia.
Tues Nov 14
We signed up for a boat ride on the Greers Ferry Lake that started at 9:30 AM. It seemed really early! We've been pretty lazy. The boat trip really didn't get going until 10 or so... at least it seemed we waited around for a long time. There weren't very many of us. Mostly people from Oklahoma. Maybe 10 of us in all.
The driver and guide runs the Marina. He's a local guy. He and his wife are both from the area and moved back after college. He described how all of the floating docks must be hand cranked when the water level changes. If it rains 1inch the lake will rise 1 foot! This explains the roadside gullies.
We found out the lake was made to help control the flooding in the area. One can only imagine what it was like for folks living in this craggy and wrinkled area.
Here is a view from inside the boat. On the right is our guide. The others are getting coffee and donuts. In the background you can see the rock scarp rising from the water and some houses at the top. There were lots of houses on the lake but it wasn't really crowded.
Above is Sugarloaf Mountain from inside the boat with a reflection of our guide in the window.
The lake is huge. We only covered a small portion of it in 2 hours.
Mexican lunch again. It was so good and other places seemed sketchy.
We spent the rest of the day at the condo.
Wednesday Nov 15
Our last day in the condo. A rainy day so we didn't do much. We finished up laundry, used the hot tub, and had a fire. We ate leftovers for lunch and went to dinner at the Little Red Restaurant. It was ok. Nice, friendly people as we found everywhere but the food was nothing inspired.Thursday Nov 16
Got up and had a huge breakfast. Packed up and headed west. We arrived in Texarkana in the late morning/early afternoon. We visited the small but nice museum in the center but were stunned by how abandoned everything was.
Some lovely looking buildings but all closed up. Very sad.
I'd looked up the Perot Theater before we got there and hoped we could get a tour of it.
We went into the Box Office and lo and behold a lovely woman named Deb gave us a fabulous tour. So much history. Beautifully restored by Ross Perot's parents.
And had lunch at another Brewery restaurant right near the theater and where we'd parked in downtown Texarkana.
From the window of the brewpub we could see the art center across the street and the sign for the old Hotel Grim in the background. There are plans to renovate it and hopefully the rest of this downtown area will begin to rise again.
Friday Nov 17
Texarkana, TX to Holiday Inn Express, Grapevine, TX(near the airport)
Almost ran out of gas on the highway! Of course just when we needed it it was 15 miles away, but we made it.
Traffic on the way through Dallas was busy! Got to the airport and dropped off the car, then waited for the shuttle and got to the hotel in the mid-late afternoon.
Great dinner at the bar at Mi Dia in Grapevine. We were able to walk to it over the highway due to great sidewalks and pedestrian lights. There are a couple of restaurants grouped together here.
This interesting statue was outside:
It was pretty empty when we arrived and we got a good seat at the bar.
By the time we finished it was really hopping. Nice seating outside
but we were fine at the bar... it was actually rather warm outside.
Got back to the hotel in time for sunset.
Saturday Nov 18
Time to fly home.
To the airport, DFW->PHL, I had a nice conversation with the guy next to me. From PHL->BOS where we were in a smaller plane with only a seat A on the left and 2 seats on the other side.
Home before dark. Uneventful travel, best kind.
What a fun trip!
Comments about timeshare:
Although the timeshare purchase isn't an ideal fit for us, I think we've done a good job of making it work for us. It was great for relaxing when we both spent a lot of time at sea. It has brought us to places we probably wouldn't have visited. It will serve us well when we're touring the country.
We don't golf or ski or have kids. If you do, a timeshare might make some sense, but it doesn't seem particularly cost effective. I've found we can often rent the same unit we get with the timeshare exchange. It might be slightly more expensive, but considering the upfront purchase price, it is many years before it pays for itself. We are currently $X ahead/behind -*** calculate this!)
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